And the guides on my trip, Roberto and Walter, brought the science to life in relatable, accessible ways. I never quite got used to millions of birds being utterly unafraid of a human presence.Īnd having the naturalist guides along (a requirement which also protects well-paid employment in the Galapagos) means you can ask any question that pops into your head about the creatures you’re seeing-predators, mating, weird trivia, or even if the way they’re looking at you means anything. When you’re out for a nature walk, for instance, juvenile boobies will stand in the middle of the path, stare at you, and possibly waddle up to you to get a closer look. The most incredible thing about the Galapagos isn’t the abundance of wildlife, although that is certainly a draw-it’s that the wildlife here by and large aren’t scared of you. In our entire time sailing from island to island, we saw only one other expedition vessel and one private charter, meaning we had all this nature to ourselves-a state of things likely to continue at least for the next few months. (And then were tested again upon leaving if we were returning to the U.S.). In addition to the testing, virtually all the guests-mostly from the U.S.-had either been vaccinated, already had COVID, or self-isolated in some way before coming. Then the Galapagos requires another test before you can enter the islands, which Quasar helped arrange (along with all the normal paperwork required to go). To visit the Galapagos, a province of Ecuador, you must have a negative PCR test taken no more than 10 days before entering the country. In the evening, naturalist guides gave 45-minute talks designed to give depth to what we were seeing-the science of volcanos, convergent evolution, the threats the islands currently face, etc. The route goes for seven days and visits five of the islands: Santa Cruz, Genovesa, Santiago, Isabela, and Fernandina.Įach day included a mix of activities-nature walks to see birds, giant tortoises, lizards, and unique flora, as well as snorkeling, kayaking, and Avon inflatable rides for more wildlife spotting. (Perhaps the nicest surprise were the meals, which left no room for complaint.) The Grace holds 14 guests in addition to its crew. The rooms, while varying in size, are all comfortable and well-appointed and the Princess Grace suite is very elegant. Luckily for Galapagos visitors, she was instead acquired by Quasar and outfitted for cruise expeditions. Later, after decades of languishing, she was rescued in the 1980s and nearly bought by Microsoft’s Paul Allen as a support ship for his mega-yacht. The Grace was also conscripted by the Royal Navy during World War II and outfitted with guns. Quasar’s journeys are designed like a safari except home base is a ship instead of a game lodge, and mine took place aboard the Princess Grace, the 147-foot-long yacht, built in 1928, whose claim to fame is that it was given to Princess Grace of Monaco and her husband Prince Rainier as a wedding present by Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis. My longstanding desire to visit these islands made famous by Darwin coupled with a journalistic curiosity about what it was like to visit one of the handful of major destinations still open to international tourists meant I enthusiastically said yes. I visited the Galapagos by invitation of Quasar Expeditions, the adventure cruise company whose trips around the islands are perennially lauded. The World’s Craziest Underwater Adventures And if you glance away from the watchful gaze of militant king angelfish staring you down, you just might catch a glimpse of a playful sea lion following you.

There are owls that hunt in broad daylight from the rocky ground and flightless cormorants with tiny wings that border on the absurd. Meanwhile on land there are tortoises that grow up to 800 pounds. Giant green sea turtles resting underwater along rock cliffs will be so carefree in your presence that they just might bang into you while carried to and fro by the swells. Here, birds not only stay put when you walk near them, but will often come closer to inspect you. A land where blasé giant iguanas graze several feet under water and penguins hunt in subtropical mangroves.

I was in the upside-down world of the Galapagos Islands.

Quasar galapagos